1/27/2024 0 Comments Sentry turretThe order does not matter, but can be swapped if you need to change the direction of the motor.Ĭonnect extension wires to the BEC (+5V and ground) on the ESC. Wire up the 3 Brushless Motor connections to the ESC. Hot glue the ESC on to the side of the turret.Īdd a terminal block connector to the side to connect the power wires of the ESC to the battery. If there's anything you're unsure about or that isn't clear, please feel free to leave a comment or message. Since this project is intended for users with intermediate experience, and the components can be adapted, the circuit diagram should be fairly straightforward. Using the ESCs to power the servos and camera is really useful as it can handle a much higher current output (2A) compared to using the Arduino which can only handle a maximum of around 0.5A. The 7.4V is steped down to 5V using the ESC Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) to power the:Ī BEC is used to remove the need for multiple batteries for the different power requirements of the components. The 7.4V is stepped down to 5V using the Arduino to power the: The 7.4V is stepped up to 12V to power the: The 7.4V from the battery is delivered directly to the: Be careful when handling LiPo batteries and charging them, reading all safety instructions that came with it. The whole circuit is powered by a 7.4V 3800 mAh LiPo battery pack typically used for RC cars or drones. With that, strap in, it's time to wire up! Please take caution when working with electronics and soldering, using general good practice at all times and ensuring nothing is powered on unless testing. Also, programming the ESC to work with the Arduino can be difficult depending on your model, but easy once you've found the manual, so hang tight for that. We used jumper cables, electrical tape and terminal blocks to make most of the connections allowing for easy changes and repairs, stripboard for creating power rails and hot glue for fixing components in place.Ī main point to note here is the power distribution circuits are really important for delivering the correct voltages and current to the components. The specifics of how you choose to wire it, cable routing, etc is entirely up to you for what's convenient. This stage has a lot of flexibility depending on your specific choice of components, but the main key is to follow the circuit diagram. With wireless control you gain a lot of freedom with the design since there's no wires in the way - it makes firing Nerf balls even more enjoyable! The turret is compromised of two main circuits - one for the turret, and another for the joystick - these communicate to each other wirelessly using the nRF24L01 module. With the main mechanical chassis complete with some of the electronic components in place, it is time to add the rest of them and wire it all together. Insert the feeder tube, and match the cut on the tube.Īssemble the parts again and slide the barrel mount 3D print over the barrel, as shown. Cut a 10mm wide notch, 25mm down into the curved arm of the elbow joint. On the opposite side is where the feed slots need to be cut. Slot together the parts as shown and place them in between the frame vertical arms and note the side of the elbow joint that points towards the grid of six slots in the vertical arms. The barrel should point forwards over the Arduino. ![]() Have the centre of the slot in line with the centre of the barrel, and symmetrical on the left and right.Īlso, cut a slot in the elbow joint and feeder tube. ![]() The slots should start 20mm from the front of the barrel, and be 70mm long, with a height of about 25mm. Cut a 170mm length part for the barrel and a 250mm length for the feeder.Īlso, you will need to cut two slots in the front end of the barrel for the wheels to slot through to fire the foam balls. The barrels and feeder were made from 36mm waste plumbing. Recommended printer: Artillery Sidewinder X2 Total Cost: £268.64 (much cheaper if you already have parts lying around) Laser cutter (or hand saw and some patience) MG996R 360 Degree Servo (for Rotation) - £9.00ĭS329HV Servo (for Trigger Firing) - £7.89 Plastic 70mm O.D Wheel set (for Firing) - £4.20 Links to the specific components we used are attached.Ģx 2.4GHz WiFi module + Shield - £2.60 eachĬompatible Joystick (an old 15 pin Logitech Wingman works great, anything simple that uses potentiometers) - £5.99ģ6mm plumbing pipe and Right angled 3 way adapter
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